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Buddhist Monks and Mangrove Forests
28 Days, Three Countries, One Unforgettable Experience

Photos and text by Renee Eng, UCLA

I awaken to the hypnotic chanting of Buddhist monks. Mustering all my early morning energy, I open one eye and see the sun is just beginning to set fire to the sky. I look over to see three of my classmates still asleep, sprawled on the barren wood floor in their clothes, clutching to their sweatshirts for warmth. I gaze at my surroundings; a large piece of cloth covers the doorframe and two large windows without panes offer a view of the courtyard below. With the exception of a few mats and small pillows on the floor, the tiny room is bare. I listen, mesmerized by the humming chant that cuts through the stillness of the pre-dawn air, and I wonder how I got here in the first place.

Life in a Muslim fishing village

This was far from what I had envisioned when I considered taking “Field Studies in Southeast Asia,” a geography course with only a vague description about a four-week field trip to conduct research throughout Thailand and Malaysia. I wrote the title of this course onto the long list of courses that I wanted to take as a UC Education Abroad Program student once I arrived in Singapore. I had never imagined that spending the night in a monastery in Thailand and waking up to the sound of monks chanting on the King’s Birthday would be part of a class; but I would soon experience many things I couldn’t have ever imagined.

A temple in Thailand, decorated for the King's birthday

Determined to find out more about this course, during my first week at the National University of Singapore I tracked down one of three professors leading the course and found myself sold on the idea of embarking on a 28-day trip with complete strangers, some of which would ultimately grow to be some of my closest companions. It was a once in a lifetime chance to partake in a unique research experience halfway around the world--seeing places I had never seen before, with people I had never met before. After all, I thought, I hadn't traveled across the globe to remain inside my comfort zone.

Throughout the semester, our field studies class met every other week to discuss logistics and proposed projects. I was the only exchange student among a group of 40 Singaporeans, albeit the three professors were from other countries. This which would prove to be interesting as I later confronted American stereotypes and elaborated upon U.S. culture and lifestyle to my classmates.

At the university in Pattani

Our field trip began in the small town of Pattani, Thailand, where we participated in a cultural exchange with students attending the local university there. In addition to learning some new Thai phrases, I was able to share what I knew of Singaporean culture and my own American culture as well.

I became friends with a Thai student during the exchange and we shared what we could with each other--she, in intermediate English and I, in rudimentary Thai. There I was, sharing jokes with this friendly student who shared my aspirations of finding success in life, while realizing that she had never even traveled beyond the borders of her own country. The exchange gave me a greater awareness of how fortunate I was to be able to take part in EAP--a program which offered me the chance to not only study in another hemisphere, but also opened doors to opportunities like this field studies course.

A fisherman works on his boat in Resemilae

No classroom lecture can compare to what I learned by visiting Resemilae, a Muslim fishing village in Thailand: watching villagers prepare their cashew nut crop, interacting with children scattered throughout the village, inhaling the scent of freshly painted fishing boats, and studying how polluted waters have affected their fishing livelihood. Learning by ‘doing’ and hands-on activities are unique experiences, which cannot be acquired through textbooks or inside a lecture hall.

The Muslim faith fascinates me and I was able to learn more about it through my research. One of my projects focused on the controversial destruction of a mosque to make way for new housing developments in Penang, Malaysia. I gained an insight into the daily life of Muslims and their way of life as four Singaporeans and I studied the urban geography of the area, concentrating on the conflict between the mosque’s surrounding inhabitants and the local government.

Setting out to clean a polluted mangrove forest

Although the course was identified as a geography course, it encompassed all academic disciplines. I carried out research projects in rural and urban settings, studying everything from endangered mangrove forests to the impact of pollution on fishing villages, to the sustainability of shrimp farms. Hiking in knee-deep mud to replant mangroves in sprinkling rain and the rush of wind in my hair while riding on the back of a tuk tuk crammed with seven other people, are the memories that really capture the essence of my field studies experience.

Children in a Buddhist temple

When the four weeks came to an end, I said my goodbyes to my classmates and professors, uncertain if I would ever see some of them again. Living, eating, and traveling with the same people for several weeks allowed me to forge deep meaningful friendships with several other students.

Ultimately, my study abroad adventure has encompassed three countries and is filled with great memories that will be forever etched in my mind. I could write forever and share all of my experiences in Southeast Asia, but you will only truly understand if you embark on a journey like this yourself.


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